The aim of this trip was to check out birding destinations and "special" birds we might find in this area.  Brian Steele-Drew, who has recently qualified as a birding field guide, accompanied me.

We traveled to Punda Maria gate through the Kruger Park, taking about 6 hours for just over 200 Km.  From the gate we took the R524 road through Louis Trichardt to Mhinga village where we turned off  the tar onto gravel to Vhuri Vhuri.  The last section around Vhuri Vhuri mountain is quite a rough road and not suitable for saloon vehicles and probably not passable in the rainy season with such a vehicle.  The ride from Punda Maria gate, plus approximately 30 Km of dirt road, to the Vhuri Vhuri picnic site took an hour.  The site is signposted and one goes down the track to the fenced community camping/picnic site.  We had arranged to meet Christopher, the Birdlife accredited guide, who lives close by, at the site where he met us at a small office.  The facilities for camping are adequate with running water and an ablution block.  There are 2 tents on concrete bases for hire but are without beds at present.

Having been here before, I knew we could expect to find African Broadbill and Pink Throated Twinspot; the former within the camping ground and the other in the adjacent area.  Green Twinspot also occurs, but although we heard it calling did not see it.  In the area near the stream we had good views of  Eastern (yellow spotted) Nicator and Gorgeous Bush-Shrike.  During the night Wood Owls were calling and by using a spot light we had fleeting glimpses of them in the camping area.

I recommend spending at least one night at Vhuri Vhuri..  The African Broadbill is best found at first light when it can be pinpointed by its characteristic "purring" call and possibly displaying from a favored perch.  There are 2 walks from the site through indigenous woodland and cleared areas of grazing/farmland where we saw Black Sparrow Hawk, African Harrier Hawk (Gymnogene) and Olive Woodpecker as well as a selection of bulbuls, sunbirds and other common birds.

I am of the opinion that this site is greatly underrated, and due to its somewhat remote location is under utilized .  Birdlife and Christopher in particular, deserve far more support if this area is not to be ravaged or lost through neglect.

From the village of Vhuri Vhuri we turned right, through the village of Hamakuya to Guyuni.  After about 20 kms we turned left following the signposts to Tshulu Lodge on a rather rough track.  This is a new place consisting of 6 tents on decks overlooking the Mutale River.  There is a central kitchen with a substantial patio overlooking the river and mountain slopes covered with baobab and ironwood trees.

There are various areas for walking in the vicinity, mostly of the more vigorous type (!!) over rocky and sandy terrain with some wooded kloof areas adjacent to the Mutale River.  There are 2 resident guides here, who are competent but not, as yet, accredited by Birdlife. 

We spent 3 nights at Tshulu birding here and nearby in the reserve area..  African Harrier Hawk (Gymnogene) appeared common and were seen throughout the day .  In the kloof areas we found Purple-Crested Turacos (Loeries) and a good sighting of a Nerina Trogon sitting in full sunlight, showing his brilliant colors.  Along the Mutale River we found another Eastern (Yellow Spotted) Nicator.

The highlight was on the final evening, whilst sitting on the patio, with the sun having just dipped below the mountains opposite, when a pair of Bat Hawks were seen catching bats and eating their meals whilst on the wing.  Presumably these birds roost further upstream towards the canyon area where we had not been.  Obviously this warrants following up as it could be a strong draw card for the lodge if the Bat Hawks can be proven to be residents.

From Tshulu we returned to Guyuni, rejoining the road to Tshikondeni mine, where the tat road starts again, and on to Masisi, where the main R525 is joined and along to Pafuri gate to Kruger Park

We birded in areas down to the Luvuvuhu bridge, stopping some time on the bridge itself as this is always a rewarding place.  From here along Nyala drive and back to the Pafuri Picnic spot and Crooks Corner and the border crossing area (SAPS Post) where we could see the old Wenela /TEMA post on a koppie.  This accommodation can now be booked and is available to anybody.  It is NOT part of Kruger Park.  For people who enjoy buildings that have a history and are surrounded by beautiful indigenous gardens, this is the place in an amazing area.  We then proceeded to Punda Maria camp and spent the afternoon birding around Mahonies Loop .

The following morning we left camp as the gate opened at 6.00H and drove around Mahonies Loop again.  We had 3 separate sightings of  Grey Headed Parrots, culminating in a group of 9  perched on a dead tree and taking turns to drop down and drink in the stream below.  This was followed by a (possibly vagrant) Miombo (Southern Lesser) Blue Eared Starling which Brian had located by its call and was confirmed by its brilliant magenta coloured lower belly and flanks.  Towards the end of Mahonies Loop we located another rare species, when we found a Racket Tailed Roller which was perched in typical fashion midway up the bushes and diving to the ground to forage for prey.  Superficially it resembled  a European Roller rather than the common Lilac Breasted Roller, with its all brown back to its crown, green/blue front, with prominent white eye stripe.  The spatulate tail ends were only seen as it dived to the ground.

This spectacular finale made a fitting end to the 5 day excursion to an area which can only be further improved by the arrival of summer migrants